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Article by Sarah Spellings from Vogue.com
The California of the 1960s is the fashion inspiration that keeps on giving: bright colors, bold prints, elegance and fun inextricable from one another. For resort 2024, St. John’s executive vice president of design Enrico Chiarparin pulled from the American brand’s archives. “St. John, besides knits, was always known for color,” Chiarparin said. Slim Aarons photographs, the model Veruschka, and actor Mia Farrow were key influences. In fact, one of the sky blue mini dresses in the collection, with a beaded floral pattern, draped back, and jeweled bows is a clear nod to the Pierre Cardin dress Farrow wore in A Dandy in Aspic.
Many of the 1960s inspired silhouettes look like hits. The salmon pink column gown is a prime example, with its back that slightly complicates the otherwise straightforward design. A chartreuse knee-length dress has cutouts at the waist, but a layer of fabric underneath. In addition to feeling modish, it’s a way to sell a modern trend to the older, more established St. John customer—revealing details without actually exposing any skin.
That’s a theme throughout the rest of the collection. Matching sets come in staunchly youthful fabrications: blue snakeskin and yellow faux fur among them. The leather jackets in a rich teal and burgundy are heavily embellished with Western-inspired grommets. These remind you of the year in which the collection was made, but it’s hard to beat the unabashed sophistication of a Prussian blue jumpsuit with shoulder pads inspired by David Bowie, or the cropped top and maxi skirt adorned with door-knocker buttons. Elegant and fun.
