Text by: Tiziana Cardini
Lorenzo Serafini envisioned pre-fall as a sort of face-off between the enigmatic appeal of Hitchcock’s 1950s divas and the pared-down sleekness of the 1990s. At a showroom appointment he said that while he was drawn to the magnetism of mysterious femininity, he stayed true to the ease and clarity of design that today’s women expect. His heroine was perhaps more Kim Novak than Grace Kelly—modern, concise charm rather than glacial hauteur.
Mysterious allure notwithstanding, comfort was paramount to Serafini, so much so that all the fabrics in the collection had built-in stretch to make them elastic and easy to move with. Even the hourglass-y shapes he favors and the ample circle skirts paired with fitted turtlenecks were made in unusual blends of mesh and scuba, finely printed to look like masculine wool. Textures spanned from solids to extreme sheers, almost like hosiery. “Sensuality and comfort, that’s what it’s all about,” said Serafini.
There’s always a graceful element to his design; he’s not into overdressing or in-your-face statements. Here the sleek lines inspired by ’90s minimalism were softened by gentle drapings à la Geoffrey Beene, prettifying even the most sinuous silhouettes, or were enhanced by contrasting plays of matte and sheer textures. Outerwear was enveloping and comforting; coats and cabans had a soft and cozy feel, with hooded scarves for going incognito; they nicely complemented feminine ruched dresses cut on the bias. For evening, Serafini twisted masculine fabrics into unconventional sensual silhouettes, or reverted to black bodycon numbers for drama. Even if discretion is part of his vocabulary, going unnoticed isn’t an option.
Original article Vogue Runway - Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall 2024. Text by: Tiziana Cardini
Text by Sandra Salibian
The sleek lineup was filled with easy-to-approach, ‘90s-inspired pieces with a lot of currency. Nineties’ minimalism with a touch of Alfred Hitchcock-inspired intrigue: the Philosophy collection Lorenzo Serafini conjured for pre-fall 2024 continued to build on the seductive direction the designer has been plying of late.
In sync with his previous efforts, the designer delivered a sleek lineup filled with easy-to-approach pieces with a lot of currency, and in tune with the ‘90s comeback across fashion.
The decade’s fans will find solace in graphic spaghetti-strap dresses, and skirts with high side slits; double-face wool outerwear in charming husk and yellow hues; light draping with trompe l’oeil effects, as well as bias cut dresses in cool wool rewriting the rules of party-dressing, in tandem with a more subdued take on the use of crystals on jersey pieces.
To amplify the understated sophistication, the collection was mainly rendered in a neutral palette, save for a burst of red in a column dress that winked to Jennifer Aniston’s style in “Friends” or the red strapless design she wore at the 2000 Emmy Awards.
Yet the actress pinned on Serafini’s mood board was Grace Kelly in her roles for Hitchcock, as the designer included in his lineup some ‘50s-inspired shapes reinterpreted for modern times. Cue a tubular, off-the-shoulder black style, and a corolla dress crafted in a scuba fabric that restated the designer’s quest for wearability. To this end, the Philosophy woman could also count on a second collaboration of the brand with Malone Souliers to finish off her looks with stiletto sandals and pointy boots in comfortable heights.
Original article WWD.com - Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall 2024. Text by Sandra Salibian